2018年的10月18日，我與兩位友人搭上飛往北海道的新千歲機場，
計劃許久的「日本單車縱貫」計劃，終於在這天踏上了第一日。
做為一個單車旅行的愛好者，在台灣環過三次的島的我，
我永遠忘不了第一次單車環島的心情，也因此我迷戀上了單車。
除了台灣，日本像是我第二個家鄉，我從小看著日本的動畫長大，玩著日本的遊戲，
即使看不懂日文的我也覺得超好玩，直到高中我開始變本加厲的接觸更多的日本作品，
我也開始了解這也是為什麼台灣或是我們這輩的人對日本旅遊有種"情有獨鍾"的喜好。
這趟「單車日本縱貫旅行」便是我的第15次踏上日本這塊土地。
許多人喜歡旅行，對我而言用單車旅行的方式，遠比其他交通工具來的更加有趣。
同樣的地方，同樣的風景，能夠加乘數倍，雖然辛苦，但欲罷不能。
ROTD-Cycling across Japan in 55 Days
On October 18, 2018, me and two of my friends landed New Chitose Airport in Hokkaido.
The long-planned cycling across Japan program finally starts.
As an enthusiast of bicycle touring, I have rounded Taiwan for three times. I will never forget the feeling of cycling around the island for the first time, and that’s why I fell in love with cycling.
Except for Taiwan, Japan is like my second hometown. I grew up with Japanese animation and video games. Even though I couldn’t understand Japanese, that never spoiling the fun. I started to digging into more Japanese works during the high school time, I also started to realize why Taiwanese or my generation have a yearning feeling for Japanese travel.
This "Cycling across Japan" is my 15th trip to Japan.
Many people like to travel. But I think travel by cycling is far more interesting than other means. The beauty of place and scenery can be multiplied several times. It could be tough, but it’s also alluring.
為什麼是日本的理由可以有很多個，除了自已對日本文化的興趣外，
四季分明、治安、飛行距離很近等...
好像能說的出來不少，總合這些我想簡單的說就是"喜歡"。
把喜歡的事能摻在一起做，就是樂趣加倍啊!
所以我背起了相機，騎起了單車，在日本旅行，不就是完美了嗎?
如此完美的組合，再搭配上季節的加持，從10月的北海道開始到12月的九州，
幾乎是一路追著日本的紅葉南下，從幾個月前的規劃我已經興奮的無法言喻了。
但人生不會只有工作或是玩樂，所以當我決定這趟旅程的同時，
我也向自已的公司提出了留職停薪的請求，自已也做了各種可能的心理準備。
最終任職了將近八年時間的公司也願意給予我休息的機會，這點非常的感謝。
There are many reasons why it is Japan. Such as my own interest in Japanese culture, clear seasons, safe, short flight time, etc ... There’s uncountable reasons- actually it’s a simple word "like". It’ll be more fun if you mix things you like together!
So I started traveling in Japan with my camera and bike. Isn't that sounds perfect?
Had such a perfect combination, in addition with right season- from Hokkaido in October to Kyushu in December, almost the same time as maple leaf turns red all along the trip. I have been so exciting from the planning few months before.
But life doesn’t have to be work or play. Therefore when I decided on this trip,
I also asked my company for leave without pay. I also prepared myself for different consequences.
Finally, the company I has worked for almost eight years is willing to provide me the opportunity to take a rest. I would like to express my appreciate for that.
人的一生要有一趟長途旅行的機會可能不多，對我來說即使未來有機會進行其他的旅行時，
這也可能是我唯一一次的日本縱貫。
也許什麼都不想，去好好享受這趟旅行才是最好的。
但事情總是不會什麼都順利的，面對這樣的長途旅行，
從一開始的出發，家人的反對與擔心、我也都清楚了解。
但其實第一次如此長途的行程，我也是腦內帶著不少的小劇場，即使是日本，即使自已去過了好幾次，終究是個陌生之地，人生地不熟與荒郊野外偏僻的地方。
但是想出發的心情壓過那種小劇場，你自然就還是會選擇前進。
這一次我必須一個人面對了所有的開心、驚喜、難受、孤單、害怕。
好在二位友人的前十日伴隨，讓我的開頭就充滿了各種歡笑與安心。
但物極必反，第十一日的那天我的心情異常的沮喪，
我變成了一個人，十天的熱鬧感，突然間的安靜，
想分享的事物卻沒人可以訴說，我才發現原來我沒有我想像中的堅強。
還能這樣認識自已，我覺得意外卻又覺得真實。
也許一個人的長途旅行，並不是要獲得什麼人生大道理的心態轉變，
只是重新更認識最真實的自已罷了。
有趣的是，隔天我卻被美麗的風景與疲累的騎乘給轉換心情，重新獲得了喜悅。
There may not be many opportunities for a long journey in a lifetime. For me, this might be the only time I can travel across Japan even though there are other chances in the future for traveling abroad.
I knew I should not be worry and enjoy the trip, but things don’t always go as planned. I could clearly sensed the opposition and concerns from my family for going a long journey like this.
In fact, I had lots of dramatic thoughts before a long journey like this also. Even for a familiar place like Japan, there’s still many bizarre and suburb area I had not been to.
My desire for the trip overtook my hesitation. I choose to move on anyway.
This time I had to face all the happiness, surprise, discomfort, loneliness and fear alone. Fortunately I was accompanied by two friend for the first ten days, therefore my trip was full of laughter and secure from the beginning.
But things always turns. On the eleventh day, I suddenly became alone. Ten days of excitement turns into serene, I feels deeply depressed. I have no one to share.
Now I realized that I was not as strong as I thought. I feel amazed but true to rediscover myself in this way. Maybe a long journey is not meant to change the mentality of life, but rediscover more about the true self.
Interestingly, I regained joy by the beautiful scenery and tough riding on the next day.
存款不算有餘的我，在這趟旅程前尋找一些合作的機會。
也感謝這些友人們的幫忙，讓我的這趟旅程能夠更加的順利與舒適。
有的是聽到我要進行這樣的計畫，便主動提供了一些對旅行可用的東西給我，
有的則是我主動去提出作品與企劃，最終未必都能順利，但我還是感謝願意聽我說的人。
有的則是給予了我打氣與支持，有的則是素昧平生的網友在我的日誌裡留言陪我聊天。
有的則是身旁的友人們花費他們的時間，來送機與接機。
在出發前的二個月，我在一趟訓練體能中，時速50公里的長下坡路段中自摔了車，
運氣很好的是都皮肉傷，但不好的是多達22處大小傷口，需要花時間跟金錢去回復。
而裝備部分，偏偏我的車又是沒有代理商的CANYON，只能從官網從德國運送過來，但CANYON社團上的熱心車友真的很多，願意賣我還有特地請親人從德國寄的車友，還有當時摔車導致WOHO的尾翼包有破損的原廠，願意無償幫我修補好，都是真的讓我充滿了感謝。
沒有規定別人就一定要為你做什麼，所以除了感謝，也只有感謝。
從還沒出發的日子，我總覺得這時就已經在旅行中了。
I want to thank some friends for their help in making this trip smooth and comfortable before the main story.
Some of them heard my plan and offered me some useful goods for travel. Others are my initiative to put forward my proposal and plans, they may not go well in the end, but I still thank those who are willing to listen. Some gave me encouragement and support, and some of netizens chat with me in my blog. Also some friends spare their time to pick me up and drop me off at the airport.
Two months before departure, I crashed during a training session on a long downhill section at 50kph. The good news is I suffered only scratches. The bad news is- there are 22 large and small wounds, and it takes time and money to recover.
In terms of equipment, my CANYON bike has no local distributor and can only be delivered from Germany through the official website. Fortunately there are many kind friends in the CANYON community, they are willing to sell me or have their relatives send the bike from Germany. And II want to thank the bag maker WOHO for instantly repaired my saddle bag for free which was damaged due to the crash.
There are nothing what others must do for you, so I feel only grateful for everything I got.
I always felt like I was already traveling before the departure.
特別提到的是，10-12月份的日本氣候，跟台灣是完全不一樣的，
加上如此長途的旅程，溫差之高，面臨風雨的情況絕對是更加的嚴峻的考驗。
要能對應這個季節的車服，如果想騎的舒服一點，裝備的好壞差異就在這裡。
我的老朋友Atlas，從我在台北新店工作開始，
Atlas小碧潭店就是買裝備的好去處，
買到後來當時也是一聽到我要去日本騎車時就答應要幫助我的廠商。
Atlas從我開始騎單車開始，就是車友口耳間掛品值保證的台灣車衣品牌。
能獲得他們的幫忙，真的是有如神助!
最終我帶著Atlas2018年的冬季新裝加上部分自已的原有的裝備，
拼湊出了適合這趟旅程的裝備。
實在是除了感謝之外，我也挾帶著騎車愛好者的信念，想在這趟旅程去拍出更多的照片，
讓更多的人來對單車有興趣，也許就能多少帶來一點回饋的可能。
這一次的遊記，是濃縮了55天的精華，
是我花費數日，選出旅程中能最能代表當時在日本騎車的氣氛的畫面。
並加了點內容在裡頭，不讓單單只是一張照片，而是包含著資訊的一張照片。
如果能增加你體驗我在日本騎車時的感受一點點就好了。
The climate in Japan from October to December is completely different from Taiwan. The temperature differs intensively for such a long journey, and inevitable wind and rain will be a severe test for the clothing.
Atlas is my old friend since I’m working in Xindian. Atlas Xiaobitan is the best place to buy equipment. They promised to help me soon as they heard I was going to cycling across Japan. In the end, I mix Atlas's 2018 winter line with some of my original equipment. Cobbled up the gear for this trip.
I also carry the conviction of cyclists and take more good photos as I can on this journey. Letting more people be interested in cycling may bring some feedback.
These travel notes are the essence of 55 days, It took me a few days to select the picture that best represented the atmosphere of riding in Japan. And I added some content in it, so it’s not just a photo, but a photo with story. I hope it would help you experience my ride in Japan.
準備好了嗎?
不妨來杯咖啡，挑個自已旅行喜歡聽的音樂，
跟著我一起重新日本縱貫旅行55日的回憶吧。
Ready?
Get yourself a cup of coffee and favorite music. Let’s relive the memory of traveling across Japan in 55days.
十月中旬的北海道，已經跟台灣的冬季沒兩樣了，甚至早晚的氣溫有時都在0度邊緣排徊。
畢竟騎車不會穿太厚，所以每天早晨都是要忍著寒冷的風，直到熱起身子。
In mid-October, the weather in Hokkaido is like winter time in Taiwan. The temperature even drops to around 0 degree Celsius in the morning and the night.
I would not wear too much while riding, so I had to face chilling wind every morning until my body gets warm.
北海道的最大特色是，很多筆直的道路隨著丘陵地形上上下下。
道路看起來像波浪，而農作地與山脈，還有那一望無盡的道路與牧場交織而成的景色。
最推薦的果然還是富良野、美瑛一帶的公路了吧!
秋冬的遊客漸少，除了車潮較多的國道之外，都是可以盡情暢快踩踏的鄉間田野小路
The straight road with ascents and descents direct into the mountain is the signature view of Hokkaido.
It looks just like waves, stitching farmlands and cliffs into a beautiful scenery.
The most recommended is indeed the roads in Furano and Biei! Thanks to fewer tourists in autumn and winter, they are all rural field roads that can be trampled on. Except for the highway still with a lot of traffic.
大雪山旭岳，是北海道的最高峰，也是最早下初雪的地方。
利用騎單車的方式爬升到了旭岳的飯店，吃的飽飽，再泡個溫泉，
隔天安排個的雪山健行，真的是個如夢似幻的夢幻提案。
Daisetsuzan Asahidake is the highest peak in Hokkaido, and it is also the place where it first snowed.
I climbed up to Asahidake's hotel by cycling, had a good meal and hot spring, then go for a snow mountain hike in the next morning. What a dream proposal!
從層雲峽到帶廣的273號國道，連手機訊號都收不到的地帶。
原始林貌的地景，是個有機會見到鹿、狐狸、熊的公路...(最後一個不要出現就好...)
From Sounkyo to Obihiro's National Road 273, the area where even mobile phone signals cannot be reached.
The landscape is made with original forest and there’s chance to see deer, fox, and bears... (hope not the last one...)
我永遠忘不了，爬升到山頂點後，接著穿過一個寒冷的長隧道，
眼前出現的是間咖啡店與一整片壯觀的樹海與高架公路。
I’ll never forget what I saw after passed a chilling long tunnel at the summit- It’s a coffee shop and a panorama view of trees and elevated highway.
才五點多就天黑的北海道，那天我們看見了洞爺湖的夜景，
那顆像主燈的月亮讓湖面整個亮了起來。
It was dark in Hokkaido at just five o'clock, and that day we saw the night view of Lake Toya.
The moon, like the main lamp, lit up the lake.
晚上跑到函館著名的八幡坂，為了拍照，爬了好幾次的坡...
這裡真的很陡阿!!
In the evening, I went to Hakodate's famous Hachimanzaka. In order to take pictures, I climbed the slope several times ...
It's really steep here !!
與同伴道別後的第二天，我有點孤單，熱鬧的日子瞬間安靜了下來。
但看到了東北的紅葉後，美麗到讓我暫時忘了自已是一個人這件事。
I feels kinda lonely on the next day after saying goodbye to my companions. The lively days suddenly quiets down.
But I forgot I was alone soon as I saw the beautiful scenery of red leaves of Northeast area.
如果說這趟旅程要挑一張我自已覺得風景最美的照片，那就是這張了。
當我來到這裡時，時間很緊迫，因為距離五點只剩下一小時半的時間，
而我快步的走到這裡，卻因為背光的關係，怎麼樣都拍不好看，
但才等幾分鐘，運氣很好出現了一道光灑在樹林上，瞬間顏色都跑出來了。
我也滿足了，因為這天的早上為了躲時延後了出發時間，
接著又一直在跟坡度進行對抗，最終可是說是這趟旅程騎的最辛苦程度前三名。
If I had to pick a best picture of this journey, this is it.
It was in urgent when I arrived the place because it’s only 1.5hr to five o’clock. I walked quickly to the spot, but unable to get a good shot due to the backlight. Few minutes later, luckily a light sprinkled on the woods and colors emerged.
I’m satisfied finally. I started late on that morning cause of rain and fighting with steep climbs after then. I’ll take it as one of the three toughest parts of the journey in the end.
東北楓賞的台灣人好多，昨天住的青旅幾乎都台灣人，
而隔天在這裡也遇到來自台灣的旅行團，並且受到了打氣與稱讚。
There are so many tourists from Taiwan for the red leaves in Northeast, the hostel I stayed last night was almost full of Taiwanese. I also met tourist group from Taiwan today, they cheered and praised for me.
淋雨、又出太陽、開TT模式狂抽猛送騎了143km，腰酸背痛的一天。
騎長途真的不要背背包...(淚)
It was raining then sunshine repeatedly. I rode hard in TT mode for 143km and suffered backache. I would never wear the backpack again for a long distanced ride.
這天我騎到小諸往一個不在計劃內的地點前進，
「小諸高原美術館」這裡的景色卻遠超過我的想像。
我坐在能看見360度的景色的木桌椅上，吃著美味的三明治與點心，
曬著溫暖的太陽，是我最幸福的一個時刻。
I detoured for a place not in the plan- Komoro Kogen Museum.
The scenery there is beyond my imagination.
I sat on the wooden stool with 360 panorama view, eating delicious sandwich and dessert, with the warm sunshine sprinkled. It’s the happiest moment.
要挑選一條我自已覺得日本最美的高山公路實在是很難選，
前天的「渋峠」很棒，但今天的「車山高原」路段又是另一種感覺，一樣絕景滿載。
It’s hard to pick the most beautiful mountain road in Japan. “Shibutoge” two day before was great, but today's section of “Cheshan Plateau" has another feeling. Both of them has full of scenery.
霧峰高原下滑，又是一處名景點「諏訪湖」，你的名字的取景原型聖地之一。
Slides down from Cheshan Plateau, another famous spot “Suwako” shows up. It was one of the reference location for the film “Your Name”.
前往白馬村的路上，我經過了這座湖，如果說以最喜歡的湖來做排名的話，
他是我這趟旅程中最喜歡的一座湖，即使我沒有在這待太久的時間。
喜歡的點不在於他的面積大不大或是深不深，
而是我從這個無人的稻尾站月台看過去能以垂直湖面的視角去面對房子與紅葉，
對於這樣畫面，讓我深深迷戀著。
I passed this lake on the way heading for Hakuba-mura. It will be my favorite lake if I had to rank them, even though I didn’t stay for a long period.
It’s not because its size or depth, but I can had vertical perspective view of houses and red leaves across the lake. I am fascinated by such pictures.
身為TNF的粉絲，白馬村的「THE NORTH FACE GRAVITY HAKUB」，
是能喝到北臉咖啡豆的其中一間店鋪，親切的店員送上熱騰騰的咖啡與烤過麵包的熱狗，
我就在這裡一邊欣賞窗外的北阿爾卑斯山，一邊打著紀錄日誌。
渡過美好的休息日。
As a fan of TNF, “THE NORTH FACE GRAVITY HAKUBA” is one of the shops where you can drink North Face coffee beans. The friendly staff brings hot coffee and toasted hot dogs. I had a great rest day here watching the Northern Alps outside the window and typing my diary.
終於離開長野縣，來到了古色古香的城市「金澤」，我在這裡度過二天的時間。
金澤給我有點像京都的印象，帶有著傳統日式的文化與奢華，
是否是看到太多的金箔商品(笑)。
Finally I leaved Nagano Prefecture, pedaled into the quaint city of Kanazawa, where I stayed for 2 days.
Kanazawa gives me an impression of Kyoto, with traditional Japanese culture and luxury lifestyle. I’m wondering if I saw too much goods made with gold plates (laugh).
夜晚的二條城，花了我這趟最貴的門票...
值不值得看每個人，雖然我覺得還算值得，但窮所以心痛。
Nijo Castle at night, cost me the most expensive ticket of the journey…
It's up to you to say worth it or not. Although I think it's worth it, I feel poor because of being poor.
能與愛車坐在一起的單車咖啡店「FRANCY JEFFERS CAFE 」。
實現了愛車人士的微小夢想，如果不是太偏遠，如果在台灣是否也很有搞頭。
The cycling cafe that can have a sit with your ride “FRANCY JEFFERS CAFE”. Fulfill the dream of a cycling enthusiast. It may also work in Taiwan if located not too remote.
這天因為星期六訂不到房而打亂了我原有的行程，
中午就來到了在四國的高松市，只好挑座有藝術之島稱呼的直島，來去單車環島。
My original schedule was disrupted this day cause I failed to get a room on Saturday. I arrived Takamatsu city in Shikoku at noon, so I picked Naoshima- The island of art for cycling around the island.
騎士的家「CYCLO NO IE」，為挑戰島波海道的騎士為主服務的青旅!
這天讓我很有歸屬感。
Cyclist’s home “CYCLO NO IE”, the guesthouse focused on challenger of Shimanami Kaido! I got full sense of belonging this day.
這天我錯失了騎完全程的機會，騎錯了神社，爆了胎，在島波海道渡過了最衰之日。
I missed the chance to finish the full line on this day. Riding to the wrong shrine and got flat tire. I spent my worst day in Shimanami Kaido.
這55天，我總共住了39間。
我給了許多旅館評價，在廣島的這間36hostel我給了"最佳整體總分"。
從價格、與裝潢設計、服務態度、交通等，這間幾乎都表現的相當棒!
I’ve stayed 39 hotels in 55 days trip. I would like to give my best score to the 36hostel in Hiroshima.
It was great in every aspect- the price, interior design, service and location!
宛如龍宮殿的嚴島神社。
Miyajima Shrine resembles a dragon palace.
門司港，終於抵達了九州，終於到了最後一個地域了。
代表著長達快兩個月的日子的旅行，即將迎向終點。
The Moji Port- It means I had arrived Kyushu and it’s the last area finally.
That indicates the two months long journey was about to come to its end.
與友人在異地相約一聚的小倉。
Ogura- Meeting with friends in a foreign place.
感覺能夠進行修行的瀑布。
但其實不需要，因為接下來我一路被雨扁到快失溫。
A waterfall seems can use for meditating.
But I don’t have to actually because I’ve been soaked wet by the chilling rain after then.
我並不是全程騎單車的行程，對我來說有限的時間之內，我只想騎自已想去的路線。
有時天氣不好，火車"輪行"是一種選擇。
環日本的定義有很多種，四極點攻略，全縣攻略，即使是火車縱貫也是一種方式。
而我能的話還是會盡量以單車為主，但偶爾也會為了美景繞些山路。
I didn’t ride my bike for the whole journey. For me, I only rode the route I wanna go due to limited time. Sometimes the weather turns bad, being carried by the train is an option.
There are many definitions of go around Japan- Four points plan, all prefecture plan, even crossing by the train. I would like mainly go by bicycle if I could, and sometimes detour into the mountain for the scenery.
在九州最後的一個騎行路線，我選擇在阿蘇。
而我覺得能在這裡騎車實在是太幸福了。
I choose Aso as the last cycling route in Kyushu. And It’s nothing but happy that I could ride in a place like this.
好像在外星球般的景色，阿蘇的壯觀景色魅力又跟日本其他地域不同。
As if from an alien planet, Aso's spectacular scenery is definitely different from other places of Japan.
阿蘇火山口的路線，是我這趟旅程最後的考驗。
The route of the Aso Crater was the final challenge of my trip.
回到台灣後，從長途的旅行回來，離工作的日子也沒多遠了，
想當然就是一堆事情的重新展開，
但其實心裡一直想再對當時幫助我完成這趟旅程的朋友再說聲道謝。
從最早跟我接觸的Atlas Sportswear新一季的車衣為我這趟旅程帶來更舒適的體驗，
Unicode的臂章與求救燈，Outdoor Gears社團的版主所提供的燈具，
幫我打包維修車子的Giant捷安特 捷勁自行車行，
WOHO Bike趕在我旅程前維修了我在摔車時破損的包，
公司的同事、與在這趟旅程幫助我的朋友們，以及旅行的過程中觀看與留言打氣的你們!
當時我一直有一個觀念是，當你想做某件事時，帶著強烈的意志，
並實際往那個方向去前進，那麼自然會順利達到你要的地方。
而我回到的那天，我重新修改了這個想法。
這條路我才發現，你必須感恩這條路成全你的"人們"，
我在路上自由的踩踏時，看見這些美麗的景色時，不時想著前人真的很偉大，
創造了這些路，讓我可以騎在這些路上面。
我在都市時，人們在勤奮著工作，讓我可以買到食物，住宿以及各式各樣的服務。
有著越來越便利的手機與應用程式是背後的開發人員花費時間所創造出來的，
我才能如此輕鬆的旅行。
遙想當年的第一次在台灣環島時，還背著厚厚的地圖書，
現在卻只要一台手機就可以定位又查找餐廰或旅館。
這個世界真的很厲害!
有這個世界的人們努力我才可以順利的前進，我原以為自已努力就夠了...
但其實我自已一個人很懦弱，只是身邊的人不停的幫我推一把和願意等我的人!
感謝一路走來的你們和我自身的意志!
我的旅行是一個人但又不是真的一個人。
最終我騎了2252.3公里，爬升20122公尺海拔。
I had to restart lots of thing after coming back from the journey. But I always want to say thank you to many friends who helped me to accomplish the trip.
Atlas sportswear, Unicode’s lamp and armband, Outdoor Gears community’s host for lanterns, Giant bike store for packing my bike, WOHO Bike for repairing my bags, colleagues and friends, every one of you followed me and cheered me up!
At the time I always had the idea that when you want to do something, with a strong will,
And actually go in that direction, then you will eventually reach the place you want.
On the day I returned, I revamped the idea.
By this journey I realized people should be grateful for people who make your journey came true. When I pedaled freely with beautiful scenery, I gave my honor to the predecessors who built this road therefore I could rode on it.
While in the city, there’s a lot of people working hard to provide every kinds of service. And I can traveled easily because of convenient phone and apps created by the developers. I had to bring a heavy map book when I cycling around the island for the first time, now all you need is a smart phone to find great restaurants or hotels.
This world is really amazing!
It needs people around the world worked hard to have me going ahead, I thought my effort is all that needs before. Actually I’m weak by myself, but I have lots of friend who willing to give me a hand and waiting for me! Thanks to all of you along the road and my will!
My journey have only one person but not really alone.
I rode 2252.3 km and climbed 20122m elevation in the end.